Cards

How to spot a reprint or a fake

A practical checklist for comparing a suspect card with a known authentic copy using light, a loupe, calipers, and a scale.

Published 2026-10-30

Illustration for this article
Illustration, not a photograph.

A reprint is a later copy; a fake is made to pass as original. Both can look close at a glance. The reliable method is comparison: put the suspect card next to a known authentic copy from the same set and run the same checks on both. Use tools that give you numbers, not just impressions. Keep a written record for each card.

## Compare against a known authentic copy

Start with a card you trust from the same set, language, and finish. Use the same light and background for both. Check front and back. Look at the set symbol, copyright line, card number, and font. Compare spacing, alignment, and color. A reprint often uses a scan; text may be slightly soft or spacing may drift. Do not judge from a photo alone. If you do not have a control card, buy a cheap common from the same set.

## Check print pattern and text with a loupe

Use a 10x loupe. On many cards, the printed image is built from a dot pattern. Compare the pattern angle, dot size, and spacing with the control. A scanned reprint can show a different pattern or a pattern that looks copied. Check small text: authentic edges are usually crisp; copies can look fuzzy or thickened. On holos, tilt the card. The pattern should shift with the light. A flat print may not.

## Measure and weigh with a control card

Use digital calipers and a scale that reads to 0.01 g. Measure width, height, and thickness at the same points on both cards. Weigh both. Write the numbers down. Tool math here means comparing values, not trusting a single reading: if the suspect is consistently thicker, thinner, heavier, or lighter than the control, treat that as a flag. Repeat measurements to avoid error. Calipers can also show a card that is too stiff or too flimsy.

## Inspect edges, corners, and finish

Factory-cut cards usually have a consistent edge and corner radius. Look for double cuts, rough edges, or corners that are too sharp. Check surface texture under angled light. Look for print lines, gloss differences, or ink that sits differently. A UV light can help compare paper fluorescence, but use it as one check, not proof.

### Can a reprint be legitimate?

Yes. Some sets have official reprints; check the set symbol and copyright text.

### Is a loupe enough?

No. Use it with measurements and a control card.

### What if the seller will not provide close-ups?

Ask for clear front and back photos, measurements, and a return policy. If they refuse, walk away.

### Should I get high-value cards authenticated?

For expensive cards, professional authentication is practical. It gives a second opinion and a record.